Day 62: rough start

Day 62
Miles: 18
Over Selden Pass to the perfect campsite

Can’t break the streak of late-starts. We had camped close by our friends Purple and Carnivore, early risers, and we hoped that they’d have a good influence on us… but we wake up to full sun and no sign of them. They must have snuck out of camp hours ago.

With all that sleeping in, surely hiking should be going better? We’ve only made two miles and I’m crashing hard. Today is not my day – either that or the Sierras are gradually, inexorably taking me down.

I collapse by a small, pretty lake. “Oh man,” says J. “Look at that lake. Look at those trout!”
  “Catch me some?”

Pop, pop, pop! Three trout, all in a row. J spends another half hour catching the last one, I clean them and put them in with foraged green onions. Food of the gods! “You’re never going to enjoy another trout dinner again,” declares J. What could compare with this? Maybe I can hike today after all.

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Selden Pass goes easy. There’s a nice shear zone through the granite, the rock breaking off in thin plates. A cheeky ground squirrel sits by us on top of the pass, sharing the view (but not our snacks, too bad for him.)

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Down, then up. The reliable down the pass, up the pass pattern is over. It’s a steep ridge, but the uphills always come through for us. Instead of pines, pines, pines, we’re in aspens. The undergrowth is flush with lupins and lilies.

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(I know, this is a columbine, not a lily.)

Going up inexorably leads to going down. A little vitamin I eases the descent. We cross the bridge over Mono Creek and it’s getting late. I don’t think twenty miles are in our future, but perhaps?

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More uphill, but the walking is hard. Rocky hard. Hunger cramps. No more gas.

Then we see it – the perfect campsite. It’s across the creek, flowing downhill on a smooth granite chute, in a little grove of trees. “There it is,” I point out. Home. I roll a boulder into a narrow spot in the creek and we hop across. The tarp is an easy one tree pitch, then pasta sides and bed.

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Day 61: we do not pass

Day 61
Miles: 19
From evolution lake to a creek, before Selden Pass

Our morning matches our evening – leisurely. Once we start back up, our mini lake vacation is over. Well, sort of. We make it from one side of Evolution Lake to the other, then stop again. J needs to go swimming, and I need to re-braid my hair. It’s hard to believe we’ve finished all the major passes of the High Sierra. It’s a little sad.

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Before starting this thru-hike, the places and things I was worried about were all a big anxiety stew. One place at a time, they’ve sorted themselves into places, days. The muddle gets strung like beads into a timeline I can’t reverse.

From Evolution Lake it’s a long ways down. We drop down fast, crashing down switchbacks and past JMT hikers as we try to make up time. First we follow evolution creek, then we ford it – the first time we’ve had to get our feet wet. “You know the drill, right?” asks J. “Three points of contact. Keep your hipbelt unbuckled. If you start getting swept off your feet, face upstream.”
  “Yup. Let’s do it.” Trail runners get swapped for camp shoes and in we go. Easy-peasy. The hardest part is not flailing at the mosquitoes, which somehow know that I’m totally vulnerable and descend in hordes.

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Evolution Creek

Tasty, Storybook, and Crawfish are on the other side, eating lunch. We pass them by and follow Evolution Creek the rest of the way down. It cascades over a cliff, we switchback down. The San Joaquin River takes us down some more. We’re a long way out of high country already now, in tall pines, forested slopes.

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We’re pounding out the miles today, but we pause at the trail head to Piute Canyon. “This is where I did field work on college,” J tells me, pointing up canyon. “Almost ten years ago now… that’s bizarre.” A couple hiking the JMT stops to chat, and tells us to be sure to check out the hot springs up ahead.

Hot springs! Don’t need to tell me twice!

Getting to Blayney hot springs involves a stream crossing a little bit more stressful than the first. Then a trek across a warm, squishy bog, lots more mosquitoes, and some wandering about. The hot spring is a turbid and murky pool with naked people in it. There’s an attractive couple from Santa Cruz, a John Muir lookalike, and -horrors- the annoying man from Muir Pass.

We take off our clothes and join them (when in California…), and proceed to have the exact same annoying conversation with the annoying man as the day before. It’s even worse the second time round. The couple from Santa Cruz leaves – I think it’s time we did as well. I was worried that the hot springs would blow up the rest of our day. Instead, I can’t wait to get out of here.

The mosquitoes chase us the rest of the way back to the trail, and fueled by annoyance and mosquito rage (I’ve got the rage!) I take us up the mountain. The vertical grade is completely unnecessary. Who planned this thing?

Nice thing about a stiff uphill – if you hike up long enough you will run out of energy to waste on things like being annoyed. I’m exhausted, but finally calm. We set up our tarp in the dark. Selden Pass tomorrow.

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